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Public·184 Sugar Warrior
Mark Mishin
Mark Mishin

Winter Sports 2012 Feel The Spirit Crack \/\/TOP\\\\



That is a great and helpfull idea. I think mine has a crack bit im not sure. Its a 2012 lt cruze turbo and suddenly i noticed oil under the alternator side under the engine passager side. I will post my fondings soon. Hopefully i can fix it with this idea. Thank you !




Winter Sports 2012 Feel The Spirit Crack



Toad then tells Vector that Charmy needs to see him back in Cubyrinth. When they arrive in Cubyrinth, Charmy tells Vector in order to open the gate, he must engage in a quiz based on Real and Dream Winter Olympic sports and the islands of the snow spirits. He tells him if he gets 5 questions correct within 45 seconds, he will open the gate and let them through. Vector succeeds, and they go through.


Thank you for sharing your comment and video. Although, this response comes well overdue, your comment and video have been extremely valuable in facilitating our movement to end bully coaching and ultimately bullying in sports. Our team has decided to dedicate the majority of our funds and time towards this cause in response to each email, phone call, and comment on this page. We are fed-up as well my friend. We will be launching an affiliate website @sportsbullying.com in 2015. Any resources, information, or service that you or any other viewer of this response feel would help parents respond to and put an end to bully coaching please email us through the contact page to share.


Whatever the material, there are many things to look out for when buying a second-hand bike. However, carbon has its own peculiarities that set it apart and make it trickier to assess. In particular, there could be hidden damage from a severe impact, which could lead to a sudden failure.\nUnless you happen to have access to scanning equipment, you\u2019ll have to rely on a more indirect method, along with close visual inspection.\nA bit of detective work will give you a feel for the situation. For example, a mismatched set of wheels, where one or other of the rims has been replaced, might give you a clue as to whether the bike was crashed or involved in a mishap.\nAlso, ask why the current owner is selling the bike. We\u2019ll cover some of the basics for checking component wear below because excessively worn components can be an indication of a hard life.\nIf you\u2019re in doubt, have the bike checked out by a pro. Bike shop labour charges are around \u00a335 an hour, so expect to pay anywhere from \u00a315 upwards, because the whole process will take at least half an hour, possibly more.\n\n \nRelated reading\nThe complete guide to buying a used bike\nWhy we should fiercely defend and celebrate the repairability of bikes\nSix tips to guarantee your bike gets the best price on eBay\nHow to safety check your bike\n\n\n \n \n A carbon repair specialist would be able to assess any potential damage on a second-hand frame. Carbon Bike Repair UK\nIf you want to be absolutely certain and you have your heart set on a particular bike or frameset, consider sending it to a carbon repair specialist who will be able to diagnose any faults invisible to the naked eye. Repairs to a dearly beloved carbon frame may also be far more affordable than you might imagine.\nHow to assess a used carbon road bike in 10 steps\n\n \nTools required\nMeasuring tape\nChain checker\nTorch (flashlight)\nMulti-tool\nFlat-head screwdriver\n\n\n \n 1. General inspection\nThis may sound ridiculous, but first determine the bike is actually the right size for you \u2013 even if the build presents a stupendous deal, don\u2019t be tempted to try and make something imperfect work for you.\nNext, lift the bike up a few inches and allow it to drop, listening for distinct rattles or clunking. Chain and cable slap is normal but any clear noises from within the frame or fork should be investigated.\nWith steel, titanium and \u2013 to a lesser degree \u2013 aluminium, any damage to the frame and fork should be apparent, but that\u2019s not always the case with carbon.\n\n A corroded seatpost or crack around the seat clamp slot can be a sure sign of trouble. Paul Smith\nCheck the seatpost clamp area, particularly the slot. Many carbon frames don\u2019t have a hole drilled at the end of the slot, which prevents cracks from spreading in this high-stress area.\nRob Granville of Carbon Bike Repair UK (CBR) adds that, while a crack here is \u201cnot a dangerous fracture in general\u201d, over a period of time, a frame can suffer from what his team calls \u201ccarbon creep\u201d.\nSimilar to a crack on a car windshield spreading over time, \u201cthe trend is for the small crack at the slot to turn 90-degree to run horizontally, and it eventually will separate as the rider movement on the saddle causes it to come away\u201d. He adds that this isn\u2019t usually fatal though and can be easily repaired.\nIf the bike has an external seat clamp, make sure you remove it and check the clamping area on the frame for any damage. If the bike has an integrated seat clamp, check that any bolts aren\u2019t stripped or seized, and that all parts are presents and accounted for.\nCheck the seatpost hasn\u2019t seized in place: loosen the seat clamp and try to twist the saddle. It should move easily.\nA seized seatpost is, at best, a pain to remove and, at worst, can be fatal.\nA sticky or seized seatpost will also be an indicator as to how well (or not) the bike has been looked after.\nFinally, with the seatpost refitted, lean on the saddle with reasonable force. Check for any distinct clicking or creaking.\n2. Check the frame\n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n If you see small cracks, do not buy the bike.\n \n Paul Smith\n \n\n\n \n \n \n\n \n Small cracks can be hiding anywhere. These were found on the inside face of a seatstay. \n \n Alex J\n \n\n\n \n \n \n\n \n If the bike has been fitted with mudguards, check around the crown of the fork \u2013 it\u2019s not uncommon for a rattling fender to cause damage similar to this. \n \n Shea Connell\n \n\n\n \n \n \n\n \n This is, obviously, a fairly extreme case, but if a bike has been involved in a serious accident, cracks can be this obvious.\n \n Johnathan Alan\n \n\n\n \n \n\n\nClosely inspect the surface of the bike\u2019s finish. If the paint is in poor condition, this can indicate poor washing technique or a hard life spent in all weathers.\nNext, have a very good look at the frame in good direct light. A bright torch can also help highlight any defects. Pay particular attention to the top and down tubes for damage from roof and boot racks \u2013 carbon frames are particularly susceptible to crush injuries from clamps.\nLook closely at all of the tubes and look for ripples or damage. Don\u2019t buy the bike if you see cracks like those in the photos above.\nThe front derailleur mounting plate, especially if it\u2019s riveted or bonded, should be inspected closely. Bluish-white powdery deposits are sure signs of corrosion and will cause the mounts to break off.\nCBR also suggests looking for cracks \u201ccoming from the area where the mount and the tube meet. If you see this, walk away\u201d.\nTo be totally sure, grab the end of the cage on the front mech and give it a tug \u2013 you shouldn\u2019t feel more than a small amount of movement, and the majority of this should come from the body of the derailleur itself.\nDo your homework beforehand and check how closely the current spec matches the original. If the fork or front wheel have been replaced, ask why. Don\u2019t buy the bike if it\u2019s due to a crash.\n\n Check the steerer on the fork \u2013 is there any visible damage? Any gouges? Is it perfectly round? Paul Smith\nIf you can, drop the fork out of the frame and check the steerer for damage at the stem clamping point and then check the condition of the headset.\nIf you cannot remove the fork to check the steerer, CBR suggests you straddle over the top tube, as if you are resting after a long ride.\nThen, locking the front brake while putting downward pressure on the front wheel, \u201ckeep your eyes on the fork and watch it flex. Listen for any nasty rasping noises inside the head tube. If the steerer is fractured you will surely find it through this test\u201d. This the first test CBR carries out when initially assessing a bike.\nHe adds that \u201cthe idea is to put flex through the steered between the top and lower head tube bearings, which simulates a frontal impact. This is a deadly hidden problem for any bikes with partial fracturing around the crown race and upward\u201d.\nTo double-check for wear or poor adjustment of the headset bearings, lift the front wheel up and allow the bars to swing from side to side \u2013 if it feels notchy or rough that could indicate the headset is worn.\n\n If you feel excessive play in the headset after adjusting, pop out the bearings and check where they sit in the frame. You never know what you may find\u2026\nIf there is excessive fore and aft movement, check the headset bearing seats and the head tube for wear. Worn bearing seats could be fatal damage or, at best, an expensive repair.\nNext, check the dropouts for the level of wear caused by the quick release heads or thru-axle. CBR says that a small depression in this area shouldn\u2019t be a cause for alarm but, \u201ca light bulb shaped slot could indicate that the wheel has been rocking around and, when fitted, the wheel will be misaligned\u201d.\nRub marks on the inside face of the non-driveside chainstay and seatstay are another sure sign of a loose wheel.\n\n \n \n \n\n\n4. Check attachments\/rivets\n\n Checking bottle cage mounts and derailleur mounts for damage. Paul Smith\nCheck all attachments to the frame: bottle cage rivets, any cable stops on both the top tube and rear derailleur, and down tube cable guides, which are often located in a critically stressed area a couple of inches from the head tube.\nWe would suggest going as far as taking a multi-tool to each bolt to check everything moves freely \u2013 removing a seized cage bolt is an extremely tedious and difficult task.\n\n Is the chainstay protector damaged (or missing)?\nHave a look at the chain suck zone \u2013 the area between the chainstay and the small ring. There is usually a plastic or metal plate here that protects the chainstay from damage. If there isn\u2019t, ensure this area isn\u2019t gouged.\nA few surface scratches of the lacquer are okay, but anything more substantial should raise alarm bells.\n5. Check bonding zones\n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n \n This is a very extreme example but illustrates what can happen if corrosion is left to run amok. \n \n AM Bike Co\n \n\n\n \n \n \n\n \n Brake mounts are another key area to check for corrosion damage. \n \n William Jones\n \n\n\n \n \n \n\n \n They aren\u2019t quite as common these days, but on older frames in particular, check the bonded areas where alloy dropouts or other components may have been used.\n \n Paul Smith\n \n\n\n \n \n\n\nJoining methods vary depending on frame design. Even modern monocoque designs can incorporate bonded, riveted or bolted metal elements, and they\u2019re even more common on older frames.\nCheck locations where carbon or aluminium tubes are bonded together into their joints. The combination of dissimilar materials (carbon\/aluminium) and an electrolyte (salty road spray) combine to create what is, in essence, a big battery. This can produce galvanic corrosion.\nA little oxidation or peeling \ufb01nish is likely okay, but be wary of large gaps or thick bubbling of paint. Besides the dropouts, check around the bottom bracket shell and just below the headset.\n\n \nA word of warning\nBefore we move onto assessing the bike as a whole, bear in mind that even the most fastidious eye won\u2019t be able to pick up invisible damage below the surface of a carbon frame.\nIf you are in any doubt \u2013 or if you have crashed a bike yourself \u2013 consider whether sending it to a carbon repair specialist could be a good idea. They will use ultrasound and other methods for assessing the frame that no local bike shop is likely to have access to.\u00a0\nIf there is damage on the bike and you absolutely have your heart set on it, call around to get quotes for repair \u2013 it may well be more affordable than you think and is better than potentially consigning the bike to the bin.\u00a0\n\n\n \n 6. Contact points\n\n This is true of any bike \u2013 carbon or otherwise \u2013 but if ridden extensively on the turbo or never washed, corrosion can get so bad that it can rot right through a handlebar or stem. David Martin \/ ThreePockets\nContact points are a potential mine\ufb01eld from a safety standpoint. With carbon bars or seatposts, check for the same signs of stress as in step two.\nIt\u2019s hard to put a recommended lifespan on either alloy or carbon finishing kit, but check for corrosion, particularly around where the shifters clamp onto the bars. Peel back the hoods to check.\nAlso check around the clamping area for any deep gouges, marks or crush injuries.\nCBR says that on carbon bars it is not unusual to see \u201ca depression in the clamp area of the bar when removed\u201d. This is caused at the manufacturing stage \u201cwhen the bars are fitted before they are fully cured\u201d.\nTo check whether this is damage, CBR suggests \u201cstressing the bar and looking for movement as carbon does not stay deformed without fracturing or heat damage \u2013 there are no exceptions\u201d.\n\n Don\u2019t be afraid to remove the faceplate of the stem to check for damage. Paul Smith\nTo be doubly certain, remove the faceplate from the stem and look for heavily worn spots or grooves, identi\ufb01able by worn anodising and exposed raw aluminium or, on carbon bars, deep scratches.\nAlso look for signs of crash damage, such as scrapes on the brake levers, bar ends, saddle edges and rear derailleur.\nCheck also for wear or damage to a carbon seatpost and that the head is in good condition \u2013 a saddle pack can cause a surprising amount of wear. Consider replacement and its cost if you\u2019re in doubt.\n7. The wheels\n\n If the bike has rim brakes, the rims should be square in profile with no distinct concave shape on the braking surface.\nImportant for the overall performance of the bike, and crucial for controlling costs, the wheels and tyres need to be true and in good shape.\nCheck for oxidation and cracks at spoke holes on the rim and hub, and the spoke nipples. Also, ensure worn pads haven\u2019t been allowed to score the braking surfaces on rim brake bikes and that the braking surface isn\u2019t concave due to wear.\nLook out for signs of damage to carbon rims like deep scratches, nicks or cracks in the lacquered outer surface.\nCBR suggests that if you see \u201cany\u00a0blistering on carbon wheels\u201d\u00a0 you should walk away from the deal immediately. A wheel failure is not something you wish to take a chance with.\nGive the wheels a spin and eyeball the gap between the rim brake pads. A slight out of true of about 1mm or so is okay if it\u2019s gradual and occurs evenly. If it\u2019s intermittent or occurs at a different spot on each revolution then this is a sign of bearing wear, which usually means at least a hub service, and often a new wheel. Equally, a rumbling sensation felt in the fork leg or tip is a sure sign of dry or worn bearings.\nSpin the wheels slowly and look for wear to the tyres. You may need to budget to replace them if the tread is wearing thin. Uneven wear with flat spots or the casing showing through the tread might be due to uneven brake action or poor wheel alignment.\nIf the bike has rim brakes, check the pads for wear. They\u2019re cheap to replace, but a very worn pad can cause the metal brake shoe to rub against the rim or tyre, leading to damage and a possible \u2013 and extremely serious \u2013 failure.\nIf the bike has disc brakes, check that the rotors spin freely, are centred between the pads and aren\u2019t worn excessively. Check the pads in the calipers are at least 3mm thick and don\u2019t need replacing. Make sure all the bolts on the rotors and calipers are present and tight.\nAlso check that the brake hoses on hydraulic brakes are in good condition. Hold the brakes on hard and make sure that they stay engaged and that there\u2019s no tendency for the levers to edge towards the bars. Make sure they don\u2019t feel spongy. Both may indicate air in the system and could mean you need to bleed or replace the hoses or other components.\n8. Drivetrain\n\n Get a chain wear checker and learn how to use it. Josh Bowes \/ BikeRadar\nNow use your handy chain checker to detect any chain wear.\nIf you don\u2019t have a tool to hand, simply lift the chain away from the large chainring. It shouldn\u2019t lift past about two-thirds of the way above the \u2018valley\u2019 between the teeth, or you\u2019ll need to replace it. Also, the tooth pro\ufb01le should be even on both sides and the forward edge not hooked.\nCranks have a way of breaking at the worst possible time, so check the inside of the crank arms at the point where the specs (arm length, brand and so on) are etched or engraved, since these can lead to cracks. Inspect the pedal thread size engraved near the pedal threads and for gouges caused by a lack of pedal washers as well.\nAlso check for play in the bottom bracket bearings by trying to wiggle the chainset arms in and out. Check for corroded bearings too by turning the cranks and feeling for resistance.\nIf a bottom bracket has been left to run loose within the shell, this can damage threads or press-fit interfaces. Avoid if you can see the bottom bracket moving within the frame.\n9. Cabling and controls\n\n Check areas where cables could have potentially been rubbing. If there\u2019s significant damage, don\u2019t buy the bike. Jonny Ashelford \/ Immediate Media\nIf the bike has external cables, inspect closely to ensure they are not splitting or fraying. Check where the cables could have been rubbing against the frame and make sure any marks are no more than superficial.\nWith derailleurs and rim brakes, check for pivot and joint wear or sloppiness in the bushings. Make sure that the rear derailleur jockey wheels are in good shape and not gunged up \u2013 a dirty bike should always be a warning sign as you don\u2019t know what could be hiding beneath.\nGrab the rear mech by the lower end of the cage and move it in and out towards the wheel. It shouldn\u2019t feel too baggy, with the combined play in the top and middle pivot along with the parallelogram bushings adding no more than about 2 or 3mm of de\ufb02ection, (not to be confused with \ufb02ex in the material).\nLift the bike, spin the cranks and make sure that you can shift smoothly through all the gears. Poor shifting might be a sign of worn cables or lack of lubrication \u2013 or just need adjustment of the indexing and stops.\n10. Test ride\nBefore your test ride, grab the bars and twist \ufb01rmly. No cracking or creaking noises should be heard and it should feel \ufb01rm(ish), offering resistance to twisting.\nThen lock down quick-releases or check thru-axles and \ufb01nd a safe, car-free area. Try riding with your hands off the bars to see if the bike tracks straight.\nStand on the pedals and put a bit of muscle into it while swinging the bike left to right \u2013 there should be no cracking or crunching noises.\nTest the brakes and try to lock the rear wheel just a bit. Now get a bit of speed going and see if there\u2019s a wobble, caused by a damaged tyre or out of true wheel.\nIf you\u2019ve decided it rides well, make an offer well below the asking price and let the haggling begin!\n\n Thanks to Rob Granville of Carbon Bike Repair for supplying images and his assistance updating this article.\n\n\n \n ","image":"@type":"ImageObject","url":"https:\/\/images.immediate.co.uk\/production\/volatile\/sites\/21\/2019\/03\/12


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